WINEpiphany

Frati Horn – Bahl Hornin’

Posted on March 30, 2013 by Anthony Burich

Frati Horn
Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
2009
14.5% ABV | Price: $29

Boontling is a language native to Boonville, California; largest town in Anderson Valley. Thought to have originated in 1875 as a way for the locals to communicate privately. Absolutely fascinating to hear the language spoken – have a look here for translation of the lingo.

Frati Horn, meaning “Glass of Wine”, is a tribute to the history of Anderson Valley. Project is vision of George and Anne Coughlin, in partnership with John Phillips of Inspiration Winery and Custom Crush Grapes; grapes are sourced from small ultra-premium vineyards on the Boonville valley floor. 2009 vintage is a blend of Dijon Clone 777 and Pommard, open-top fermented, bottled after 12 months in 50% new French oak.

My initial thoughts revolved around the retail price of $29. Anderson Valley has established itself as a solid source of terrific Pinot Noir, with most bottlings selling for $40 and up. This was either going to be a super value or total letdown. Ruby red color, aromas and flavors of black cherry, cola, and cranberry, with subtle hints of sage and vanilla. Nice acid and structure with a medium length finish. Bottom line: very typical Anderson Valley Pinot Noir; steal at $29.

Only 50 cases of the 2009 were produced and is sold out. However, 2010 vintage is still available for the same retail price; different blend of Dijon Clones 115, 777, and Pommard from Ridley, Balo, and Londer vineyards. Bahl Hornin’ – “It’s good drinking!”

Posted in Anderson Valley, California, Mendocino County, Pinot Noir, Red, Tasting, Wine | Tagged Anderson Valley, California, Frati Horn, Inspiration Custom Crush, Mendocino County, Pinot Noir, Wine | Leave a comment

Italian Pinot Noir

Posted on March 10, 2013 by Anthony Burich

When I think back to great Italian wines I’ve had the opportunity to sample, Pinot Noir (Nero) does not make the list, nor does Oltrepo Pavese DOC. That all changed at the 2013 Tre Bicchieri tasting in San Francisco on February 7th, where I got to sample Frecciarossa 2008 Giorgio Odero Pinot Nero.

Oltrepò Pavese is located in northwest Italian region of Lombardy, bordering Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna. Approximately 4,000 hectares of Pinot Noir are planted, most of any region in Italy. The area is not generally known for high quality wine, with majority of the Pinot Noir used for sparkling wines or blended into other still wines; due to early ripening and clonal selection. That said, Oltrepò Pavese has become a region that is more consistently producing high-quality Pinot Noir.

Grapes are hand harvested, lightly destemmed, cold soaked in stainless steel tanks for 8-10 days. The wine is transferred to barrels to undergo malolactic fermentation, then transferred to a combination of new, one year old, and large format barrels to age for one year. After bottling, the wine is aged an additional two years before sale. 1,160 cases produced.

Ruby red in color with orange rim. Complex aromas and palate of dried red berry, plum, black currant, orange zest, earthy notes, herbaceousness, and integrated oak. Full bodied, juicy, moderate acidity; elegant with velvety tannins and a medium-long finish. Very nicely structured. 14% ABV. Not at all reminiscent of Burgundy or New World Pinot Noir but a unique, alluring expression in it’s own right.

Posted in Event, Italy, Pinot Noir, Red, Tasting, Wine | Tagged Frecciarossa, Gambero Rosso, Giorgio Odero, Italy, Lombardy, Oltrepo Pavese, Pinot Nero, San Francisco, Tre Bicchieri | Leave a comment

Concha y Toro Gran Reserva Serie Riberas

Posted on November 12, 2012 by Anthony Burich

Clockwise from top: Wines Sampled; TasteLive Broadcast; Host Nicholas Solga with Marcio Ramirez (Gran Reserva Winemaker) and Italo Jofre (Wine Ambassador Concha y Toro)

As the fifth largest wine exporter in the world, Chile has established itself as a country that offers a diversity of quality wines that are consistent and reliable; which also over-deliver on quality at a fair price.

During a recent TasteLive broadcast, I had the chance to experience the quality and value of Concha y Toro Gran Reserva Serie Riberas brand. The focus of this brand is production of modern, unique wines from single vineyards located close to different river basins in the Colchagua, Cachapoal, and Maule Valleys. We tasted through Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Carmenere, and Cabernet Sauvignon – priced $14.99 – $16.99.

Gran Reserva 2011 Sauvignon Blanc

From Ucúquer Vineyard, south bank of Rapel river, central Chile. Aged 6-months in stainless steel tanks. Straw-yellow color; vibrant and round with citrus and mineral notes. Clean finish.

Gran Reserva 2011 Malbec

From Palo Santo Vineyard, south bank of the Tinguiririca river, central Chile. Aged 13-months in new and used French and American oak. Lots going on here! Deep violet color; black/blue fruit, violet, leather, cocoa. Soft tannins, kissed by oak.

Gran Reserva 2010 Carmenere

From Peumo Vineyard, north bank of the Cachapoal River, central Chile. Aged 13-months in medium-toast French and American oak. Dark purple color; bright black fruit, spice, cedar notes. Supple tannins. Void of green notes typically associated with Carmenere. My favorite wine of the tasting.

Gran Reserva 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon

From Palo Santo Vineyard, south bank of the Tinguiririca river, central Chile. Aged 13-months in medium-toast French and American oak. Deep red color; black cherry, cocoa, cassis, leather notes. Soft, balanced oak. Good structure – impressive Cab, especially at this price point. Drink now.

Impressive overall. Solid wines at a very reasonable price point; definitely recommend giving them a try. Cheers!

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Chile, Malbec, Red, Sauvignon Blanc, Tasting, White, Wine | Tagged Chile, Concha y Toro, Gran Reserva, Marcio Ramirez, Mario Miranda, Serie Riberas, TasteLive | Leave a comment

Tasting of Ferrari “Metodo Classico” Wines with Matteo Lunelli, Chairman

Posted on October 23, 2012 by Anthony Burich

Matteo Lunelli, Chairman of Ferrari recently led a tasting of five sparkling wines over lunch at Perbacco in San Francisco.

Ferrari, located in northern Italy’s Trentino region (Trento DOC), is a premier producer of “Metodo Classico” sparkling wines; same process used by top Champagne houses. After studying in French Champagne village Épernay, Giulio Ferrari returned to Italy to establish Ferrari in 1902 with the intention of producing sparkling wine that rivaled the best in the world. Chardonnay grapes were first bought to Italy by Giulio Ferrari and for the next 50 years he established Ferrari as esteemed Italian sparkling wine producer. In 1952, Giulio who was childless, sold the winery to Bruno Lunelli, personally selected to carry on his vision. Today Ferrari, under 3rd generation Lunelli leadership, continues to produce stellar sparkling wines, continually striving to improve quality – through sustainable and organic agriculture, support and education to grape growers and vineyard workers, and by utilizing the latest advances in enology, while never straying from the principles established by Giulio Ferrari.

The Lunelli’s currently oversee 300 acres of vineyards in Trentino. The mountains of Trentino are ideal for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir due to excellent soil and wide temperature variation between day and night, helping preserve acidity and in creating aromatic impressions. The Trento DOC imposes strict standards, ensuring high quality wines.

Ferrari as brand is synonymous with “Italian Art of Living” – fashion, design, food, wine, and hospitality. It is served at the Quirinale, home of the President of the Italian Republic; also used to toast many celebrations and achievements in Italian fashion, sport, culture, and design worldwide. Matteo Lunelli sums up during March 2012 “Italian Icons: from Fashion to Wine” keynote speech, “Luxury Italian products have a hugely evocative power: in the minds and hearts of global consumers they recall a feeling of tradition, a distinct sense of place, an atmosphere of inherent quality, and the poetic virtues of our way of life. Beauty and pleasure are mutual to one another and Ferrari wines want to stand with fashion and design brands as ambassadors of Italian lifestyle.”

Perbacco chefs created a specific menu to complement the wines; food delicious, pairings excellent.

First course: Piastra Seared Squid, Corona Bean Passatina, Celery Heart, Arugula, Preserved Meyer Lemon; paired with:

Ferrari Brut NV, Metodo Classico Trento DOC (100% Chardonnay) – Retail $25
Flagship wine of Ferrari. Pale yellow, bright, crisp, creamy, dry. Notes of apple, white flowers, and brioche. Elegant, complex, food friendly. Terrific value.

Ferrari Rosé NV, Metodo Classico Trento DOC (60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay) – Retail $37
PInk salmon color. Bright, dry, fresh, creamy, balanced. Elegance from Chardonnay, structure from Pinot Noir.

Second course: Risotto, Seasonal Wild Mushrooms, Parmigiano Reggiano; paired with:

Ferrari Perlé 2004, Metodo Classico Trento DOC (100% Chardonnay) – Retail $35
An outstanding Blanc de Blancs, matured for 5 years on selected yeasts from Ferrari’s own cultures. Soft, round, elegant. Flavors of apple, almond, and brioche. Unbelievably complex for this price range.

Ferrari Perlé Rosé 2004, Metodo Classico Trento DOC (80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay) – Retail $75
Matured for 5 years. Rich and creamy. Flavors of red berries, candied fruit, orange peel, marzipan. Extremely elegant rosé.

Third course: Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder, Baby Carrots, Cipolline, Fruit Mostarda; paired with:

Giulio Ferrari 2001, Metodo Classico Trento DOC (100% Chardonnay) – Retail $100
Ferrari’s Cru Blanc de Blancs with Chardonnay grapes exclusively from the Maso Pianizza vineyard which is located 1,800-2,100 feet altitude, surrounded by woodlands. Matured for 10 years on selected yeasts from Ferrari’s own cultures. Golden yellow color, aroma and flavor of ripe apple, honey, roasted pineapple, white chocolate, marzipan, toasted brioche, vanilla. Still in its youth, beautifully balanced, elegant, seductive.

This tasting was an absolute epiphany for me. From non-vintage to the Giulio Ferrari, each wine inspired me. These are sparkling wines that rival top Champagnes; in fact, I look forward to setting up a blind tasting for friends so they can judge for themselves. These are sparkling wines that I will actively seek out; very fairly priced for terrific complexity. Highly recommended!

Posted in Chardonnay, Italy, Pinot Noir, Sparkling Wine, Tasting | Tagged Ferrari, Giulio Ferrari, Italy, Matteo Lunelli, Metodo Classico, Palm Bay, Perbacco, Perlé, San Francisco, Sparkling Wine, Trento | Leave a comment

Renaissance in Sonoma – Buena Vista Winery

Posted on September 6, 2012 by Anthony Burich

In 1857 Count Agoston Hazaszthy founded Buena Vista Winery, the first premium winery in California. The Count left Hungary, his home land, in 1840 and eventually settled in Sonoma via Wisconsin, San Diego, and San Francisco – tirelessly pursuing his quest for “purple gold”.

After purchasing land and establishing the winery, The Count continued to experiment with various viticulture and oenology techniques, at the same time expanding production. He became ambassador for Sonoma and California, promoting the potential for world class wine; inspiring many others to follow their passion for wine growing in Sonoma. In 1861 The Count traveled to Europe to study techniques that he can use to improve wine making in California. After travel through France, Italy, Spain, Germany, and Switzerland, he returned with vines of over 300 different varietals; many planted at Buena Vista and introduced to other California vintners.

Buena Vista Winery had ups and downs over the following years; eventually closing in 1878 and reborn in 1949 with a vintage released by Frank Bartholomew and André Tchelistcheff. In continuum, Boisset Family Estates acquired Buena Vista in 2011.

After a year of renovations, press and media was invited to tour the property last Friday, led by Jean-Charles Boisset. Even with the ongoing construction, this was a day of celebration – opening of the Champagne cellars, start of the 2012 grape harvest, signing of Sonoma-Tokaj Sister City Agreement; all coinciding with Count Agoston Hazaszthy’s 200th Birthday.

If you’re not familiar with Jean- Charles Boisset, I’d recommend putting him on your map. In many ways he reminds me of The Count. A pioneer in his own right, JCB speaks of viticulture with zest and fervor, consistently tying in the spiritual component of the earth and terroir; sense of place. He comes to California from Burgundy, with centuries of history tied to the brands in his portfolio, making quite the impact with his vision and practices at DeLoach Vineyards, Raymond Vineyards, and now Buena Vista Winery. In creating his JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset brand, tradition and heritage of Burgundy is united with terroir and style of California. His JCB #3 is a prime example of this – the first Pinot Noir blended with fruit from both Russian River Valley and Côte de Nuits; more on this wine in a subsequent post. JCB tasked himself with teaching Americans about wine from the old world, but equally important, teaching the world about California wine.

A demonstration vineyard, vegetable garden, and museum will be available to winery guests once renovation is complete in Fall 2013. I’m really looking forward to the entire experience. Below are photos of the Buena Vista event, click for larger image.